Friday, 31 January 2014

Workbench Update - How I Painted My Space Wolves

Hey peeps me again,

I was asked by a guy at my local club who  also played Space Wolves how exactly I went about painting my mine, well lets take a look at how I did it.

Firstly I will say that if I ever did this again I would paint everything in a  partially constructed state using the airbrush to greater effect but at the time I had not gotten into airbrushing and I wanted to play test the army so building them made more sense

1) So lets start at the beginning with a grey undercoat of your choosing applied through an airbrush or aerosol can from the hardware store either is good.

2) I then applied a layer of Fang again via the airbrush but I gather you can now get this colour in an aerosol can from GW, this is applied all over the model for full coverage.

3) Now as far as I am concerned Space Wolves never have been and never will be the colour that the Fang actually provides so I opted for a few passes of pure Fenrisian Grey thinned through the airbrush until I had a good clean coat all over.  I know at this point I could have gone all zenithal on the highlights but thats not the look I was aiming for. 

4) Next come the base colours, after the first Grey Hunter pack was finished I started to break up the painting into a method better adapted for batch painting and working on 10 marines at a time, you could try five if that's more your pace but I like to get a pack/squad finished all together.  Anyway the fist colour is Averland Sunset and you are going to paint the left hand (the models left) shoulder pad.

5) The next base colour is Mephiston Red and its used to paint the red detail on the right hand shoulder pad the eyes then the knee pads and purity seals where applicable.

6) Ok we have a few colours on the model and we are feeling pumped but the next stage will destroy you, well I hated doing it.  You need to use Abaddon Black to black out the following........Boltgun casing, Chain Swords, shoulder pad details, pistol holster, Frag Nades, any fetish straps like the one show on the thigh of the model pictured above and finally the joints at the inside of the elbows and those behind the knees.

7) If you are still with me then congrats, the models will now have a good number of colours on them and the hard work is done, its all downhill from here on.  Next come the metallics and we start with Leadbelcher and with it we paint the metal parts to the Boltgun then the skull and the trigger guard on the holstered pistol, Krak nades, chain links, the top and bottom details on the Frag nades, the rounded and squared vents on the backpack as well as those on the helmet then any rivets on the model and finally the chain swords teeth, I like to add some battle damage to its edges of the chain swords with the flat of my brush.

8) Next up is Balthasar Gold which is used on all the obvious bling like the crest of the chest as well as the raised rims on the armour plates (not including the shoulder pads) both the pictures above give you a good idea of the sort thing I mean when I say bling.

9) OK now its time to get all those fur areas like tails and pelts and cloaks painted in Rhnox Hide, while you are at it get those leather details like any bindings or necklaces that tend to crop up on these models.  Leave the brown for now as we will come back and do the highlights later just before the washes go on.

10)  man alive when you write this all down it seems like way more work than it actually is, now we hit the wolf teeth and the skulls big and small and dont forget the parchments on the purity seals.  I like to mix up which skulls I do gold and which I do in bone so its up to you to find a balance that works for you....oh yeah you need Zandri Dust for all this.

11) So its all been base colours since you picked up an actual paint brush, I love these paints as they really speed things up.  Now where was I????????.......oh yeah next its time to use the following three colours in order to paint the gemstones and runic markings on any blacked out areas on the boltgun casing or a runestone. Stegadon Scale Green, Sotek Green and Temple Guard Blue.

12) Now its time to return to the fur with a four stage drybrushing using the following colours in order while insuring that you apply the paint so that the effect is lighter towards the lower end or tip of the detail Mournfang Brown, Steel Legion Drab, Zandri Dust and finally Ushabti Bone.

13) By now the model will look almost finished but for the base and you could stop here but I will now apply a Nuln Oil wash/shade to all the silver metal areas.

14) A second wash is now applied using Agrax Earthshade to all the armour creases and recesses, gold, brown, red and bone details.  When applying it to the armour try to painting it as neatly as possible as this will help with the tidy up later.

15) We switch to a glaze next and apply Guilliman Blue to all the gemstones and the runic details.

16) This one is easy just grab the Fenrisian Grey and tidy up the armour where any paints of washes have run over.

17) With the model now finished its time to move on to the base, now I like to paint just the top surface in Steel Legion Drab leaving the surrounding edges alone for now so you can hold onto the base still as I never got on well having everyone stuck on a cork for ease of manipulation.

18) Now the surface of the base is drybrushed in the following colours in the order shown, Mechanicus Standard Grey, Dawnstone and finally Administratum Grey.

19) The finish line is in sight now, just go back and paint the edges of the base in Steel Legion drab.

20) Time now to seal the deal, get a coat of matt or satin varnish on there, I still use the GW purity seal and I find it works best indoors where it's both not too hot or too cold.  I use it in a spray booth with the window open and extractor on.  I spray a dusting over the models from about 12" away giving maybe three light passes instead one heavy and allowing the models time to dry between applications to stop any clouding.

21) As a final step I like to paint the gem/runestones, eyes and purity seals in a gloss varnish just to give them a different texture as well as the beveled edge of the base for extra protection from damage. 

Well I hope this is helpful, I was getting through ten infantry models and a drop pod a month this way by doing a little bit when could with a few big sessions a week on top and if you stick with it you will have something to show for all your hard work each month.

This week I finished my Long Fangs who were my last infantry unit so once I finish their Drop Pod the whole army is finished.

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