Tuesday, 26 February 2013

Forgeworld Realm Of Battle Cityscape

Greetings internet readers, today I have a treat for you in the form of the Forgeworld Realm of Battle Citryscape terrain tiles, after a google search I found that there are virtually no pictures online of these tiles.  I don't know if it's just that no one is taking any pictures or I'm the only person on the planet to have bought any?

Well I have my own blog now so its time to flood the internet with pictures of these things as they are really great.

So I had this big narrative event over the weekend which I keep going on about and will be posting pictures of this week, I did take some great pictures of the terrain before everyone turned up so I really wanted to show them off to you all.

Now back in November of last year I dropped the cash for six of these tiles as I needed at least a 6x4' table, I decided on one of the Shattered Plaza and Primus sectors and two each of the Generatorum and Concourse sectors this little lot came to £430 or approx $652.75.

This is a boat load of cash and a big job and I had only just finished all my Mortalis tiles, oh well once more into the breach and all that.

The tiles turned up within 5 days and were individually packed in single ply boxes and wrapped in a single layer of bubble wrap, the boxes were not in good condition by the time they reached me but to my surprise and delight the tiles were not damaged and had no bubbles of obvious faults.

It was now time to plan the method by which I would paint them, while I pondered this question I put them all in the shower one at the time and cleaned them up, I then applied a Chaos Black undercoat.  I decided to get a car body spray base coat in grey which would be the main colour for all the masonry across all the tiles so this layer went on next. 

There are loads of small details strewn across all the tiles like discarded equipment, aquilia and even wrecked vehicles, these details were painted using the a combination of the following Citadel base colours Balthasar Gold, Leadbelcher and Rhinox hide.

Once the everything was dry I wanted the roads to be a darker shade, I also wanted  this shade to be applied carfully to the cracked and chipped damage on all the masonry making sure not to soil the clean crisp grey areas.

I went with the same three part shade that I had mixed for my Mortalis tiles which is made up on Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade and Druchii Violet, this would work really well over the gold and metal details that are scattered across the tiles and add a slight purple hue to the masonry damage and roads that I hoped would help bring it all to life.

Once the shade wash was dry I did a quick tidy up with Citadel Dawnstone and then sponged an edge hightlight on to all the of the manonry using Administratum Grey, I then used a large drybrush to apply the same two colours as highlights to all the craters and rubble.  Finally I added a layer of PVA over the entire of every tile to protect them from damage during play and then dulled it all back down with a layer of  matt varnish.

when everything was finished I was glad to see that the paint job tied in perfectly across all the tiles and there was just enough shading to make it all look 3D but not so much as to make it look over worked.  This board was now a hauntingly desolate back drop that would help increase the visual impact of any models used upon it.
So lets take a look at each tile individually and then a few shots of them covered in models, the buildings that are also featured are from Pegasus Hobbies and can be purchased on eBay or Amazon.


Primus Sector.

Primus Sector including gothic church.

Primus Sector pipe line details.

Shattered Plaza.

Generatorum Sector.

Generatorum Details.

Concourse Sector.


Rhino wreckage.

The calm before the storm.

The battle setup.

I have really enjoyed painting these tiles and the feedback from my fellow gamers was more than I could have hoped for, they were worth every penny though I would have enjoyed a little discount from Forgeworld for me buying the extra two tiles to make up six but hell I knew what I was getting into.

I will update my Flickr feed to include all of these pictures but for now enjoy and check back soon.



11 comments:

  1. That has to be the best looking game board I have ever seem other than those produced by GW/FW themselves.

    I can't wait to see more of your work and I have added your site to my blog roll.

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  2. cheers, I am very proud of how it turned out :)

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  3. I take it you've not see my Cityscape board.... I'm surprised to hear that you couldn't find any pictures of it...

    www.thepaintingbunker.com

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    1. Man those are cool and no I had not seen those before, I love the crane and the buildings very cool :)

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  4. Wow, this looks beyond amazing.

    You said you sealed the board using PVA. Did you really use PVA GLUE for that? If so: How (and why lol) does it work? Also why didn't you just use the Citadel purity seal spray? At least that would have been my first idea to seal,such a marvellous looking board.

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  5. Lol yeah I tend to cover all my terrain like the GW craters in a layer of PVA as it gives them a hard coating that is stronger than purity seal alone. For these boards I covered them very carefully in a thinned layer of PVA glue then when it was dry I airbrushed on a layer of a very, very mat varnish and its suffered no damage. I am not saying that everyone should do it that way but it worked for me :)

    I am glad you think they look cool though so cheers for that.

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  6. Hello,
    I am also amazed by your work and currently at the stage where I look for the best way to seal my RoB cityscape board.

    The internet suggests many methods, but I find yours the most interesting. Sorry to bother you, but do you still remember how much you watered down the PVA glue? Just approximately.
    Also, since I do not have an airbrush: Do you think that after applying the PVA glue, using GW's Purity Seal spray would work, too? (Simply asking because it's the easiest accessible product for me where I live).

    And one last question!
    Would you say using PVA glue as a sealing method does have any drawbacks compared to other methods? Only thing I could imagine is that it might affect the color (if only a little bit).
    But then again, if I look at your board, there is not much for me to fear... looks simply amazing.

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    1. I have really opened a can of worms with my PVA trick :)

      There is a lot of information online about using PVA glue as a sealer or a surface primer in both crafting and decorating and it will need to be water down to in my case about the same viscosity as citadel paint to help it flow.

      I did some tests before hand to make sure I had it down so it caused no clouding so I would recommend also testing it. It should dry transparent and make a hard plastic protective layer over the surface. I did find the finish a little glossy but dusting with some purity seal will sort that out.

      PVA can cause warping in porous materials but with resin I had no problems but I will say that I was working on my own boards and it was something I had done before and did not really think about it being a problem.

      Oh and don’t let it pool up otherwise you will have white spots, I kept a close eye on it to make sure there were no pools and that it was drying clear and even. I let it dry naturally rather than using a heat source again in case of clouding.

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    2. Haha sorry, but I guess you somehow slipped too high in the Google rankings for this topic :PÖ
      Thanks a LOT for that detailed answer. This actually leaves only one final question to me:
      Did you apply it with a large brush (say, 2+ inch) or with a smaller one? I hope for the former one, but fear the latter, to better control amounts of PVA and pooling...

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  7. I used a large soft bristled brush that had a regular tip and not one of those flat chisel tips like the GW large tank dry-brush. I used a real hair rather than synthetic brush as I find they hold more and give a nice even spread while holding a point. I bought it from my local craft store in the oil painting brush section.

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    1. Thank you again for your detailed instructions!

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